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Learn more about the different SHAPES of Diamonds & Gemstones

WORKSHOP | Gemstone Shapes Explained

Selecting a diamond shape is a personal style statement. Round for timeless elegance, princess for modern flair, and heart for romance. Each shape tells a unique story in your jewellery- an engagement ring or pendant- reflecting your individuality and emotions.

Diamond cut is like the soul of sparkle. It's all about how well a diamond's facets interact with light. Cut grades range from Excellent to Poor, indicating the diamond's brilliance. A well-cut diamond reflects light in a way that maximizes its brilliance, whereas a poorly cut one might seem dull. Don't underestimate the importance of a diamond's cut – even a stone with great colour and clarity won't dazzle without an excellent cut. So, whether you're all about the bling or seeking a subtle gleam, understanding diamond cut helps you nail that mesmerizing sparkle.

Round Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

By far, the most popular cut is the Round Brilliant. It's fifty-seven facets out-shine and other cuts. As with most round cut diamonds, the total internal reflection is the key to its brilliants. Light travels through the stone, giving optimum sparkle and scintillation.

Round

The most popular modern diamond cut for engagement rings and any melee diamonds or gemstones placed on the ring's shank.

Single

A simple 8-cut version of a round diamond with only 18 facets. This makes them a cheaper cut that offers a more vintage look to the jewellery.

Old European

It features a rounded table and larger, triangular facets, similar to the modern brilliant cut. It is an Antique cut because it was popular between the 1870s and 1930s.

Swiss

A cushion-shaped 16-cut diamond that was popular between the 19th and early 20th centuries. It's a cross between a single-cut and a full-cut diamond.

Zircon

A Zircon-shaped gemstone, not to be confused with the Zircon Gemstone, is a modified brilliant shape. It usually has additional facets on the pavilion (lower part of the stone), giving it a slightly different look.

Portuguese

It boasts many intricate arrangements of facets, which creates a complexity that enhances brilliance and contributes to a unique depth and sparkle.

Passion

Similar to the Round Brilliant but with added faceting, resulting in a petal-like scintillation on the outer rim.

Jubilee

It was made in the early 20th century to honour Queen Victoria's 50th anniversary. Instead of a flat table at the top, it has 8 facets.

Zinnia

A zinnia-shaped diamond has many facets around the culet, which gives it a bright lustre and brilliance when it moves.

Solasfera

It is one of the few modified round diamonds that retains a Hearts & Arrows patterning. It is a patented cut with 91 facets and 10 Hearts & Arrows.

Dutch Rose

It is circular like its namesake, with a flat top and a domed crown between 12 and 24 facets. Popular in the 16th Century

Magna

Unlike a brilliant round, which has eight-fold symmetry, a round magna has 10-fold symmetry and 102 facets. It's one of several modified round brilliant cuts developed by New York City firms.

Trap Brilliant

A trap brilliant round gemstone features trapeze shapes in the crown, unlike the brilliant round, which uses trapeze and triangular shapes.

Star

It features a majority of red light, with blue emanating from the centre to the edges and green light in the centre. To the viewer's eye, it produces a brighter sparkle from all angles.

Star 129

In 2003, a new patented cutting style for the round diamond, the Star 129, was introduced. It has 129 facets rather than the traditional 58 facets on the classic Round Brilliant cut diamond.

Square / Princess Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

Beloved for its contemporary style and sparkle, the princess cut is the most popular square-shaped diamond. Princess-cut diamonds are square-modified brilliant cuts with pointed corners. Boasting over 50 chevron-shaped facets, this cut is defined by exceptional fire and scintillation. Princess-cut diamonds can be either square or rectangular. 

Princess

It is the only proper square cut, as it is the only one with a real corner. This shape is crisp, cool, and sparkles just as much as a round brilliant.

Bezel Princess

Unlike a typical princess cut, the bezel cut features diamond-shaped facets extending from the table corners to the stone corners.

French Princess

An antique version of the modern princess cut, it also has a brilliant facet structure and can often be called a square-modified brilliant.

French

Recognisable by the typical cross the crown facets depict. It was created in the 1400s but was fashionable in the 18th century and the Art Deco Era.

Quadrillion

The Quadrillion's lower-pavilion facets widen toward the culet rather than narrowing, creating a star effect in the middle of the diamond.

Radiant

It boasts more fiery brilliance than the princess cut, which reflects light neatly.

Carre

A square-shaped stone with 90֯ corners and a significant upper facet. Its step-cut facets emphasize flaws, so only high-quality gems are used in this style—a popular choice in the Art Deco Era.

Cushion

A gemstone shape that traditionally was referred to as the pillow-cut. Rounded edges soften the corners of this square gemstone. It is a very popular shape for engagement rings.

Crushed Ice Cushion

Its unique facet pattern creates a noticeable sparkle, like crushed ice or shattered glass. However, its brilliance and fire aren't as effective as those of a brilliant-cut gemstone.

Antique Cushion

Typically, it has an open culet, a high crown, a small table, and broad facets that are not as thin and stretched as modern ones. In its day, this antique cut was known as an 'old mine cut'.

Asscher

A step-cut with clipped corners, often described as a "square emerald cut," is named after its creator, Joseph Asscher. It features significant, wide-set facets that create a "hall of mirrors" effect when viewed from the top.

Mirror

Mazarin

Preuzzie

Table

Old Single

Rectangular Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

Rectangular shapes are often used for coloured gemstones like Sapphires, Rubies, and Emeralds. They feature rectangular facets that rise in the crown and fall in steps in the pavilion. Essex Bespoke Jewellery has become a specialist in nontraditional rectangular shapes like the keystone, whistle, and trapeze cuts, which have consistently grown in popularity.

Emerald

They are sought after for their understated glamour and eye-catching depth. A large, open table highlights the stone’s pure colour and icy clarity.

Baguette

This step cut, 57 faceted, cropped corner cut, is brilliant and is known to mask yellowish tints and imperfections.

Criss Cut

Elongated Radiant

Polygon Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

At EBJ, we consider polygon-shaped gemstones to have been cut into shapes with multiple equal-length sides, such as triangles, hexagons, and dodecahedrons. This should include Square and Princess shapes, but we've grouped them separately due to their many varieties.

Kite

Lozenge

Tapered Baguette

Trapezoid

Whistle

Keystone

Pentagon

Bullet

Epaulette

Hexagon

Calf's Head

Octagon

Octohedron

Dodecahedron

Pear Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

Jewellers consider a pear-shaped gemstone a "fancy shape, " meaning it's not the standard and most common round shape. Reminiscent of a teardrop, a pear-shaped gemstone or diamond blends the best round and marquise diamond shapes. It's become so popular in recent decades that it's often separated from other 'fancy' shaped diamonds and gemstones.

Marquise Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

Marquise-shaped gemstones are elongated, boat-shaped stones with pointed ends. They are also known as navette cut gemstones, which translates to "little ship" in French. Gemstones cut in this shape are linked to royalty because they were named after a marquis's lip shape and because marquise-shaped gemstones often appear in royal jewellery. That said, the marquise shape is still one of the least expensive shapes of gemstones.

Oval Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

Oval-shaped gemstones are gems that have been cut into an elliptical shape. The oval cut is a popular choice for coloured gemstones. Still, in recent decades, diamond engagement rings have become popular in this shape because they can appear larger than their identical carat-weight round counterparts. Oval gemstones typically have 58 facets, which allows them to catch more light from every angle and, therefore, appear to sparkle more than round shapes (depending on the rounds cut)

Fancy Shaped Gemstones & Diamonds

Despite the dominance of round shapes in jewellery, fancy gem shapes still hold their own. For faceted gems, a fancy cut is typically any shape other than round, but at EBJ, we refer to fancy shapes as any gemstone or diamond shape that can't be placed into any of the groupings above. As being unique dominates global trends, so do these shapes grow in popularity, which is why we at EBJ love integrating these shapes into most of our handmade bespoke jewellery for our clients. This category's well-known shapes include hearts, crosses, polygons and organic freeform shapes.

Trilliant

Heart

Seminavette

Shield

Fan

Half-Moon

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